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Thread: L47/Aurora 4.0L powered Fiero.

  1. #301
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    Only took ~22 days.



    Hoping to work on the flywheel this weekend.

    Ended up buying that house. Guess I get to move to my own shop in a few months.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 01:15 PM.

  2. #302
    Lifetime User ubengineering's Avatar
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    Titties and tires, nothing but problems.

    Keep up the work!
    15 Focus SE - 01 S10 4.3L - 96 Viper GTS - 95 Neon R/T

  3. #303
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    ITB's are awesome...

    2012 Lotus Evora S GP, 1995 Lotus Esprit S4, 1991 Toyota MR2, 1987 Renault GTA

  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by 91MR2 View Post
    ITB's are awesome...
    Yea, I'm pretty stoked. For sound and throttle response, they can't be beaten. I'd like to get my manifold fabbed up and at least start testing it by the end of the summer. For now, standard induction will do just fine. I'll be happy to have the car running well enough to move in July without a tow truck.

  5. #305
    Lifetime User ubengineering's Avatar
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    And they look fucking awesome when showing off the car!
    15 Focus SE - 01 S10 4.3L - 96 Viper GTS - 95 Neon R/T

  6. #306
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    Worked on the flywheel a bit today.

    I bought one of those little 6-ton presses from Harbor Freight for like $60 the other day.



    I assembled that and then got to work turning some ~.750" 4140 rod into .455"x.300" plugs with a 45 chamfer about .035" deep



    Ended up with something like this.



    I also made a drift of sorts, to allow pressing only on the plug itself. My initial intention was to machine the faces flat and recess the plugs to the bottom of the factory countersink in the flywheel with that tool.



    I ended up making the plugs the same overall thickness as the flywheel with a matching chamfer and I pressed them in with LocTite sleeve retainer. They're about a .005" interference fit.

    Here's a plug going in from the back side.







    Managed to get four done tonight in a couple hours. I'll go back tomorrow to finish. Then hopefully Friday I can take it to work with me and put the appropriate bolt pattern into it.



    Clutch should be here tomorrow as well. Can't wait to see that fella'.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 02:15 PM.

  7. #307
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    Got that flywheel mostly finished up. Just need to take it to work with me tomorrow and drill the new bolt pattern. We've got a big honkin' drill press hiding down in the bowels of the building.









    Last picture there is the BCD for the new bolt pattern. I'll lay the new holes out by hand, pilot drill and then bore up to ~7/16".

    New clutch showed up today. Damn it's pretty. Why didn't I do this years ago? Oh yea. Dumb kid with no real tools.









    ...and finally, the entire package WITH all hardware.



    If I finish the flywheel at a reasonable time tomorrow, I'll head back over to Eden and finish up the tooling I need for crank flange redrilling.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 01:26 PM.

  8. #308
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    I finished up the flywheel today.





    I also started rethinking my crank flange drilling jig. I don't like that bootleg strap that holds it to the flange. I decided to machine a shoulder into the bit guide itself, and I'll make mirror image 'washers' to clamp against that shoulder when bolts are torqued.



    This will also more easily allow the use of the two different sized bolts used during the drilling process.



    Hoping to get over there Sunday and make the rest​ of the clamps and stop collars I need for the bit and tap. Then I tear down and reseal the new motor. Realistically, I only have a couple solid days worth of work left. I really just need to find the time to spend in the shop.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 01:27 PM.

  9. #309
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    Walk over to my house next time you're in Eden. We can make vroom vroom noises on the motorcycles.

  10. #310
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    I reworked that flange re-drilling jig. Much better.







    Getting pretty decent with this lathe. Beautiful surface finish.



    I'd like to get back over tomorrow to make my flywheel centering pilot and tap guide. I'd also like to get the crank flange drilled and tapped. We'll see what I come up with.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 01:43 PM.

  11. #311
    Lifetime User ubengineering's Avatar
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    Ugh cannot wait for this to be up and running again!
    15 Focus SE - 01 S10 4.3L - 96 Viper GTS - 95 Neon R/T

  12. #312
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    Holy shit, it worked.

    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 01:43 PM.

  13. #313
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    Nice man!!!
    15 Focus SE - 01 S10 4.3L - 96 Viper GTS - 95 Neon R/T

  14. #314

    NAPA Autoparts



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    I am very into this thread - I haven't posted in it yet but always look forward to updates.

  15. #315
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    Hah, thanks. I'm heading over tomorrow to tear down and reseal the bottom half of the block as well as stud the head bolt holes.

    Side note, I want to use the old heads as they're already 'built' and generally in better shape, but I do need to swap two intake valves to complete the process. Can I get some lapping compound locally anywhere?

  16. #316

    NAPA Autoparts



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    Most autoparts stores carry water mix valve grinding compound on the shelf.

    Napa part # is7652657
    Permatex # is 39835

  17. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jskrapper View Post
    Most autoparts stores carry water mix valve grinding compound on the shelf.

    Napa part # is7652657
    Permatex # is 39835
    Thanks! Managed to find some of that along with a lapper and some Ultra Grey for gluing the motor back together. Should be just about ready to put it back in after tomorrow.

  18. #318
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    So, I got the new motor broken down. I'm not in love with all of the corrosion all over the block, so I'm planning to take care of that after I get the bottom end degreased and glued back together.





    I still have to tape off the cylinders and repair the head bolts, so I'll probably do the block reseal first and then the head bolts, then unfuck the block walls.

    I didn't take a bunch of pictures, but I'm sure all of you have replaced and lapped in valves at some point. This was my third set of Northstar heads tearing down and not one single valve showed much of any wear. Just some carbon. Seats were impeccable. Lapped in nicely with that Permatex stuff and a little lapper.



    The heads from the old motor are in much better shape, so they're going on the new shortblock.

    'New' valves, nice and lapped in;



    I've got half of the motor parts soaking in diesel, the other half in commercial chemical degreaser. I'll be back this week to clean everything further. This engine was filthy from the case half down.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 01:44 PM.

  19. #319
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    Still waiting on parts to soak in degreaser. Plan is to finishing cleaning and reassemble on Sunday. I have to work all damn day tomorrow.

    Having said that, I got this today.



    ...and it's a lot of subwoofer for a little racecar. Here it is compared to what it replaced;



    Here it is tucked away in the tiny [.3 cubic feet] sealed box.



    Didn't have to modify the box or even retune the amp. Score. The main reason I replaced the sub is that the old one only had one four ohm voice cool, limiting amp power to 220W RMS. This new one has dual four ohm coils, so I can wire them down to two ohms and get 440W RMS out of the amp. Much moar better.

    Hopefully Sunday I have a mostly completed motor.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 01:45 PM.

  20. #320
    Formerly Red00WS6 Wahoo's Avatar
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    Nice progress! I miss having a sub in my cars lol I always thought it would be cool to "free air" them, but only certain ones can be done that way and not sure why it's done, I guess I'll look it up now.

  21. #321
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    Free-air subs, while useful in some applications, aren't the most ideal. Their overall stiffer suspension allows them to take a bit more power without bottoming out sans enclosure, but they're still not moving a whole lot of air. This also makes them less sensitive, and thus; efficient. Truthfully, to get the best output from any speaker, it's really got to be in some type of enclosure. Most tweeters are already in their enclosure when you buy them. Mids and mid-woofers are mostly infinite baffle drivers, but still kind of use the door as an enclosure. A car door doesn't seal well, though and it's definitely not a calculated port. Again, not ideal. The CDT HD-M6 mid woofers that I have in my daily Subaru actually came with box specs for both sealed and ported applications. I've been seriously thinking about making enclosures for them for years. Likely the same for the Fiero and its CDT ES-04 Mids. I bought an open-source 3D printer kit (a MendelMax 1.5) a bunch of years ago with the intention of making custom ABS door enclosures for dedicated mid drivers, but I kind of feel like that's a slim market. I can at least make them for myself, I suppose. Still haven't finished building it anyway. Hah.

    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 01:45 PM.

  22. #322
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    So, I was required to work today from 7.5A until around 6P and the entirety of my accomplishments includes wrapping up around a dozen 100ft extension cords. Anyway; I had a lot of time to kill.

    Somehow I got into looking at the interworkings of nondescript open-wheel racecars, and I noticed a common theme. The vast majority of these cars have air jacks. I'm sure expedience and convenience play a significant role, but keep in mind that these cars are basically slammed to the road surface for aero. There's no way to get a jack underneath them. Believe it or not, I have similar issues with this car. There's about a maximum of 2" under this car before a jack hits something. It's fucking low. So, air jacks.

    I did some pneumatic math. If I use 2.5" diameter cylinders and I feed 225psi, I can lift 1,104lb per cylinder. If I use two in the back and one up front for a total of 3 cylinders; I can lift 3,312lb. That's [roughly] a 35% safety factor for a car of ~2,400lb. Don't worry, teach; I've shown my work.



    I looked for cylinders and wasn't really able to find anything available in a single-acting spring-return cylinder of 10-12" stroke in order to usably lift a car. I think the piston diameter is the limiting factor there as far as shelf-stoked manufactured units go. Anyway; I'll have to make my own cylinders. I found hydraulic seals at TheORingStore.com and given they're properly installed, will hold hydraulic pressures. I'll need to CAD the piston, rods, cylinder and cylinder caps for posterity. I'd use a regulator on the car to slowly bring the pressure up to easily extend the jacks so as to prevent them slamming down. A combination of a 600PSI WOG dump valve and internal cylinder return springs would retract them fully. Afterward, close the valve to put a small vacuum on the piston seals to help the springs hold the cylinders up.

    Anyway, 225psi from shop air? Turns out that refrigerator coolant compressors have commonly been repurposed as bootleg super quiet, high pressure air compressors for a while now. Apparently, if left to a closed system and their own devices, these little compressors will build almost 500psi. Fairly quickly. That's rad. Just need a high pressure receiver to steady the air flow. Enter large propane tanks! Any propane tank used these days has to conform to DOT regulations, which requires the tank to withstand a working pressure of 240psi. The regulations state that the proof pressure of such devices must be 4x working pressure, or 960psi. All of that came from this report. Brand new 100lb cylinders are available brand new for around a C-note. Anyway, use a pressure switch to shut the compressor off at ~250psi, plumb in a 300psi relief valve and run the tank upside-down if possible so it can be drained without being modified. Several gauges, a regulator and ~300psi rated fittings and hose later; air jacks.

    Here's some math on air volume in the cylinders and a standard 23lb propane tank at both 14.7psi [sea level] and 225psi.



    What can I say? I was bored.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 01:45 PM.

  23. #323
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    Managed to get over there today and scrub down the parts that have been soaking for a week.





    Nice 'n' brown.

    Since everything was soaking for a week in either a fairly weak Purple Power solution or diesel; everything scrubbed clean pretty easily and came out nice and shiny.



    And everything all pretty, ready to go back together.



    My boss sent me a text a couple of hours ago telling me.not to bother coming in tomorrow. Guess he thinks I worked hard enough during the week last week. Rad. Having said that, my goal is to get the bottom end reassembled and at least get the head bolts holes re-drilled. We'll see.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 01:46 PM.

  24. #324
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    Got the bottom half of the motor back together today.





    Still need to scrub the crap out of the upper block, it looks pretty rough on top of the shiny lower crankcase/oil pan. I'll work on scrubbing that after I get the rest of the bottom half sealed up this week.

    I uncovered a few things today as well. I won't be using the oil level sensor in the pan and for some reason, I don't really like the idea of putting the sensor in there and just leaving it. I spent a few minutes gutting my old sensor that already had a broken connector.





    Looks like there's already an o-ring in there, so I'm thinking I'll just whittle up an aluminum plug on the lathe, press it in and re-crimp the cap over the plug. Or I could measure the thread and make the entire thing from scratch and avoid all of the BS. I'll solve that problem this week sometime.

    Another issue that I ran into was the oil cooler line fittings that go into the oil filter housing. I didn't have one of the factory hoses when I bought the original fittings and I wasn't able to locate one, so I didn't realize that they're basically gigantic tube nuts, much like power steering hoses. Anyway, I didn't have this set up properly, so it leaked. Shocker.



    As you can see, I need to turn the tip down to some diameter for some distance to add a shoulder [at the proper depth] to crush the o-ring against the filter housing. I still need to take all of these measurements and scratch out some drawings. I'll do this at work tomorrow and modify the parts this week.

    Managed to get one indicated in the lathe and then had to walk away for the night.



    A list of o-ring sizes that I've had to hunt down so I don't lose them.

    Oil Filter Adapter - 4mm x 21mm Buna-N 70D
    Oil Cooler Hose Fitting - AS568-013 1/16" x 7/16" Buna-N 70D
    Crankshaft Position Sensor - 2.65mm x 15mm Buna-N 70D
    Fuel Injector Intake - AS568-110 3/32" x 3/8" Buna-N 70D
    Fuel Injector Rail - AS568-203 1/8" x 5/16" Buna-N 70D
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 01:47 PM. Reason: O-Ring Sizes.

  25. #325
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    Went over to the shop for a few hours today.

    First thing I did was re-chuck that fitting in the lathe. If you look at the last picture, you can see it's all cocked. I fixed that before I did anything.

    This is what I fully intended to do with those fittings.



    Turns out that after measuring a bunch on the filter housing and realizing that this gigantic chamfer required that I lose .140" off of the thread length to get to a point on the chamfer where the ID is a maximum of .430"; I had to reformulate my plan.

    Chamfer:



    I also realized this was in the ID of the fitting.



    Basically a gigantic shoulder that reduces the cross-sectional area of the oil passage by what must be at least 30%. I didn't do the math. Just plowed that fucker out. I decided on .500" ID as the -10AN side is already there, and the o-ring landing is now irrelevant. I decided to simply machine the fitting to the depth of the filter housing ports and add a shoulder for RTV.



    Pretty seamless path for the oil now;



    Finally, I put some Ultra Grey around the tips of the fittings and torqued 'em down. I kinda wish I had M20x1.5 and 7/8-14 dies to make new fittings from scratch, but oh well. Maybe when I build the next motor.

    It's the small details that kill me. Hah.
    Last edited by L47; 07-01-2017 at 01:49 PM.

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